One of the things you realize when you really get in and begin to learn deeply about a place (or, I imagine, any topic), is that you can frame your learning by a myriad of reference points. For example, I have been learning about Christian holy sites and pilgrimage/tourism in Israel, and the meaning of those places in a modern, Jewish State. In a land boasting thousands of years of history, and of people traveling to it and through it expressly to participate in that history, this is a fascinating topic. Another frame, perhaps the one that garners the greatest attention (unfortunately) is the conflict over the land. We've covered that a bit - but should you have questions, by all means, ask! I love to answer questions. Other frames include landmarks and memorials - statues, monuments or plaques in Israel marking where, in its modern history, triumphant or meaningful battles, tragic bombings or other losses of life, and other such events took place. Likewise, many approach Israel from the Biblical and/or archaeological standpoint. Interestingly, my study of modern Christian pilgrimage wanders into that frame quite often, as many Christians love to see sites and excavations where the "stories of the Bible" took place, and that prove Jewish claim to the land. We'll save that one for another day. My friend Shay has studied extensively Israel's trail network. This phenomenon, with a heritage linked to its European scouting roots, has established itself firmly in Israel's most basic culture, both because it's a country obsessed with its Land and must, therefore, know its Land (the word in Hebrew also implying "knowing" it in the Biblical sense), and also because trails establish claims, and knowing those trails allow one to better fight the enemy in one's land. A great story here!
I could write about so many other aspects, such as environmental aspects - water is always a difficult issue in the part of world - plant life - figs, dates, cactus (which is called sabra in Arabic, and is also the adopted word for native-born Israelis, since the sabra grows natively here), cedars in the north, little bushes in the desert south that the bedouin use to make soap, and which can make camels rather sick if they eat too much, and on and on; languages - the official languages of Israel (most road signs are in these three) are Hebrew, Arabic and English - but since 1989 and the collapse of the Soviet Union, a large section of Israel's population speaks Russian. And on and on - so much one could consider!
But the frame I want to talk about today is of the culinary variety. My friend Peter likes to eat his way through a new place. I'm all for that! There are two things I need to make this a successful culinary adventure. One is inside information as to the best places for local food. So I ask around. Generally, that has been a good strategy, and good for practicing my Hebrew. My Arabic isn't good enough yet to even ask, but in Jerusalem, most speak English anyway. The other thing I need is some explanation - either a menu in English, or someone who can explain to me what the dishes are so I can decide if I want one in particular. So far, this has also worked out pretty well.
I wouldn't dream of boring you with a travelogue of my daily meals, but I'll lay out some of the basics for you. One thing you have to know is that Israelis eat a great many tomatoes and cucumbers - chopped up in salads mixed with parsley, lemon juice and salt (yum!), as well as just sliced up and enjoyed alone or on pita. Now pita is a thing that can only be experienced correctly here. It's not pita of the flat, tasteless variety. Done right, its soft and warm and delicious. Often pita is dipped in hummus - a paste of ground chick peas, garlic, lemon juice, and often, tahini (sesame seed paste). Also, done right, it is a treat for the mouth! Another Israeli/Palestinian favorite (one thing they are able to agree on is some shared food) is falafel. This is also made of more coarsely ground chick peas mixed with garlic, parsley and other spices, then rolled into small balls and fried. These will often be served in pitas with all kinds of vegetables, a little humus and tahini, but you can also get them on their own.
One thing that Arabs know how to do is meat. Oh, yes, my friends, some of the most tender and juicy meat. A favorite is slow-roasted lamb, but they do beef and chicken as well. One delicious way to experience Arab (adopted by Israelis) meat is in a swharma. Early in the day, they take chunks of meat and mash them together on a metal rod (a spit) that then rotates around an open oven as it cooks slowly all day. Then they take a sharp knife and cut it off slices to roll in a large flat bread, again with your choice of tahini and other sauces, and vegetables.
My description would not be complete without a comment on the fruit. Israel is a warm country in which the temperature rarely dips below freezing. As you can imagine, this makes for some great produce. Jaffa oranges were once world-famous (but now much compete with American oranges from California and Florida). It boasts many lemon orchards, as well as banana (did you know they grow upside down!? so odd looking!), mango, pomegranate, figs (recognized this tree by the leaves...), dates (which look like they grow on palm trees), as well as some ones more common to the west as well, such as peaches, nectarines, plums, etc. My problem with obtaining and enjoying all the fresh fruit I can fit into this stomach, is that in the market (which is an experience unto itself), you can a lot of the fruit you can only buy in 2-kilo plastic boxes. So annoying! I can't use all that! So, I have yet to try a fresh fig or lychee.
As with any culture, the spices are unique, rich and flavorful. But I do not know their names. If I could, I would just transport you into the market to see the bins of fresh spices, the little pyramids they create with the powders, and to experience the pungent (but not bad) aroma of the mix of spices. It is quite a sensory treat!
I will end with a brief word on perhaps Israel-Palestine's most famous and important produce export: olives. Olive trees and groves are truly ubiquitous, and they make some of the best olive oil you will find. (In fact, my Israeli friends in America are always complaining about the poor quality of olive oil they find there. What can I say?) They use that olive oil in everything - from mixing in the hummus, to drizzling over the hummus, and on bread before they put herbs and spices on it and fry it. Likewise, green, bitter olives, pit included, are everywhere, served with every meal. I don't love them as I do black olives (much more tame in flavor), but I do appreciate their flavor.
I'm missing a great many things, but I think I've reached the end of my time, and probably the end of your patience. If I can, in the near future, I'll post some pictures to accompany my little culinary review.
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