I've taken advantage of a few opportunities to learn from Tobias Bradford, a friend from church who works as the Cultural Affairs Officer at the US Embassy. He's privy to various little insights that bode well for Jordan, and for small strides toward peace. Here are a few.
In the last few years:
- The GDP (if you're not sure what this means, here's a good site that explains it well) has grown from $2000 (2005) to $4000 (2012) - a 90% increase.
- Those with access to internet has grown from 12% in 2005 to 41% in 2012, to 72% this year.
- The consumer price index has seen a 60% growth, agricultural production a 30% growth.
- Women in tertiary (college/post-high school) education is now at 51%.
- Cell phone subscriptions have jumped from 40 in every 100 to 113 in every 100 - which means some people have multiple cell phones.
I have also gotten to hear some fun news about other aspects of Jordan. One area of interest to me is tourism, in which Jordan has recently been making great investment. Jordan has long been a side note on most people's visit to the Middle East, Israel and Egypt being the main attractors. In recent years, as Egypt has become a difficult place to visit, and Israel can be hit or miss (no pun intended), Jordan's tourism has fallen, despite the fact that it has some incredible places to visit! So, Jordan has been investing in both marketing and building up the tourism element, and has had quite a lot of success.
Other issues it has been dealing with is trade. Much of its trade has historically been with Syria and Egypt, which, for obvious reasons, has declined sharply in recent years. Likewise, the natural gas that Jordan has previously received from Egypt, is no longer available - so it has been purchasing it from an Israeli company that does off-shore production in the Mediterranean Sea. (This is fact is not widely known, as trade with Israel is tantamount to normalization of relations, and not popular among a large portion of the population.)
Water is, of course, a constant concern. But Jordanians are remarkably adept at conservation. (The western states in the US could sure take a lesson!) What has changed in recent months is the huge influx of refugees from Syria (not to mention tens of thousands from Iraq), who are not used to such conservation. As many as 1.3 million refugees have flooded Jordan, many of them making permanent homes and becoming incorporated into the economic fabric. (To put that into perspective, consider how such an influx of immigrants, with little more than what they could carry in a car, would affect Utah, which is only slightly smaller than Jordan in terms of land mass.) These refugees, accustomed to much more access to water in Syria, use 7 times the amount of water that a Jordanian does. Jordan, consequently, in the course of two years, has gone from the fourth most water poor country to the second. (Still not sure which is the first.) The obvious solution is to get water brought in from Syria - except that current conditions render that kind of effort impossible.
So, Jordan has embarked on a water desalinization project. And who is the country with whom they are partnering, you ask? Israel, of course! Except that is also a rather hush-hush fact. For the last couple of years, they have been working on a joint project of desalinization, out of the Red Sea (a water source they have in common) that would provide up to half of Jordan's water needs in a few years - water that could be used for everything but drinking and agricultural applications. This is a scientific endeavor that would put Jordan (and Israel) in a leadership position in creating solutions to the world's need for water. Exciting stuff!
Even more exciting, however, is the conversation about ISIS. What most of us (myself included, until I learned more) don't realize is that, although the leadership is highly internet-savvy and brilliant terms of marketing, most of the actual fighting is done by mercenaries and thugs - men who have fought in past conflicts, who know nothing else, and are attracted by the promise of money, a decent lifestyle, and easy access to women. The Iraqi regime - what is left of it (the Ba'athists) are trying to find their way back to a position of power, but they lack the unity, and now the access to revenue sources they once had. Prior to ISIS gaining a foothold, they had access to oil fields that basically secured their financial position - but when the Iraqi army fled, ISIS gained that access, which has given them almost limitless financial resources, not to mention military equipment abandoned by the Iraqi army (and if we recall, much of that was provided by the US - we again find ourselves fighting against our own weapons).
ISIS (or Da'ash, as it's known here) boasts 40,000 foreign fighters in Iraq and Syria. They are mostly Europeans, but a few Americans, Canadians, Australians and Asians. Those from the latter, more technologically advanced countries, provide a great resource in producing incredibly high-quality propaganda videos (they would rival Hollywood - no exaggeration). These videos portray the Islamists as the true warriors, the heroes willing to stand up to western imperialists. This image is enormously appealing to marginalized, frustrated Muslim youth, many of whom find themselves in poor, dead-end circumstances, and who like the idea of joining a heroic battle - not to mention the perks of a wife (and women), $15,000 given to their families (a fortune for them), the chance to shoot cool weapons and kill the bad guys, etc.
Of course, these Islamist groups often use the Palestinian cause as a rallying cry, but the reality is that it is very low on the list of priorities. In fact, in Arabic sources, the discussion revolves much more around taking Mecca from the Saudis, whom they view as apostates and traitors. Further, ISIS views Iran (secretly) as an even greater threat than Israel. Unlike the Israelis, whose agenda is clear and actions are relatively consistent, Iran is a loose canon - no one knows what they might do next. Much of it, unsurprising, also revolves around the religious issue: the Sunni-Shi'a divide. (If you want to understand this better, here's a good read.) ISIS views the Shi'a (Iran, majority of Iraqis) as the infidel - as bad as the Jews. Thus, with the rise in sectarian violence (which is a direct result of the rise in recent decades of religious identity in general, in the Middle East), Shi'as do, in fact, face an existential threat, and Iran has a vested interest in supporting Shi'a-led governments. Thus, it has done much to support the recent, Shi'a government in Iraq (deposed by ISIS) - the government that, suppressed for so many years by the Sunni Ba'athists, and once elected, took the chance to return the suppression back on the Iraqi Sunnis, contributing in great measure to the increasing division in Iraq that has provided fertile ground for ISIS in the first place.
Sigh.
For its part, Jordan maintains an army of 40,000 well-trained soldiers, with access to technology, training, and intelligence from the US. Yes, it may surprise you to know (another fact not often discussed) that the US has a very tight relationship with Jordan. It may be well to remember this fact, when complaints arise of the US-Israel buddy system. The fact is that American and Jordan share much more intelligence than do Israel and America. But we rarely hear complains about that.
Well, it wouldn't be a complete blog post without some photos. Two weeks ago I visited Petra and Wadi Rum with the Bradfords. It was great - except that I sprained my ankle (yes, unsurprising to many of you familiar with the history of this particular ankle). So, poor Tobias acted as my crutch all throughout Petra, and I rode a poor donkey up to see the Monastery. (Truly, I felt terrible for the little donkey, huffing and puffing up the steep steps - and even worse when they told me she had given birth only 12 days prior - no wonder she kept trying to turn around! Her baby was still back down, and her motherly instincts must have been driving her nearly mad! I will tell you without shame that I said many prayers for that sweet, poor little donkey.)
I also had the opportunity to be the Young Women's Camp Director. What an experience! It taxed my abilities, but we came through OK, and I think the girls had a good time. I'll share a few photos from that as well.
Niki and me in front of the famous Treasury at Petra. If you don't know much about Petra, or about the Nabatean civilization that built it, here's a little info.
Didn't they pose just perfectly for that shot?
Here's me and my dear donkey (and the boy who kept encouraging her forward - don't worry, he patted her with the stick, but didn't whack her - that I would NOT have stood (well, sat) for!). I apologize for the haze - I didn't know my camera had a smudge.
The amazing Monastery. It's a steep, 45-minute climb, but well worth the view! Much larger and more imposing than the Treasury, but more difficult to access. Of course, whether it was a "monastery" I don't know. I'm not sure whether they know the purpose of this building.
Off to the side is a gift shop and nice place to rest tired legs. This is what it looks like inside.
Always a picture of the King - EVERYWHERE!
Niki and Tobias on our walk back - I finally felt stable enough to walk on my own, although with constant, vigilant awareness of what was beneath my feet!
This was the ankle the first night. It got pretty good and bruised, but this shows some of the swelling. Luckily it has healed fast.
Our camel ride out into the desert of Wadi Rum - one of the famous areas in which Bedouin still live (now mostly a tourist area, and constantly under Jordanian police and military surveillance, since it is close the the Red Sea and easy access for smugglers and sex slave traffickers).
Turns out camels actually do want a drink after their ride in the desert. This water comes down from what is called "Lawrence Spring," since apparently T.E. Lawrence (of Arabia) used it.
Our little jeep (1982 Toyota truck, outfitted for passengers) had some mechanical difficulties, so we got to chat in the desert for quite some time.
Don't worry - lots of jeeps are constantly going and coming, despite how desolate and remote it looks. We hopped in with another group until our guide fixed the jeep and came and got us.
One of the coolest places! All around the area are high, imposing cliff-like mountains. This one has a rift in it, where one can view ancient Nabatean petroglyphs.
Hobbling carefully through the canyon/rift.
You can just kind of see some of the petroglyphs.
I even tempted fate and scrambled (with a lot of help) up a large rock formation to what is called "the bridge." I don't have a picture from below - I need to get that from Niki. But this is me enjoying the view. See the jeep tracks below?
Our "trusty" jeep and guide, Atullah.
Later we stopped for a splash in the Red Sea. Beaches aren't much to speak of (littered and with rocky/gritty sand), but the water and snorkeling were great! I saw a couple of jellyfish - steered clear of them!
On the way to YW camp, I saw the fabled Costo-Sam's. Awesome! It's so small! And the both of them together - just so awesome! But I also like this pic because of the girl in the car smiling at us.
Some of the camp activities - 3-legged obstacle course.
Crafts. (She looks a little frightening to me.)
We weren't allowed to make a camp fire, so this is the best we could do - small fires in the grilling area. I was chastised the next morning by the camp administration, but it was worth it! The girls loved making fire - who doesn't! And our theme was "Girl on Fire!". How could we not?
I have never seen a tree like this! Look at the red bark (it was even more red than this shows)! Anyone know what kind of tree? Ruth?
We also attempted to make clay oil lamps (you know, from the Ten Virgins parable). This is how mine turned out. Never did have much of a crafty side to me.
Well, that's it for now!
you. are. amazing.
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